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FLEXIBLE LINER POND CONSTRUCTION
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Step 1
Begin excavating the soil, digging from the center outward. Put the soil on a plastic tarp to prevent damage to the outlying area. Do not dispose of the sod or dirt until you have finished.
You may need the soil for backfilling or raising the level (See step 2, below). You may need the sod to fill sandy sections. Dig the hole, sloping the sides and forming the shelf area.
Extend an edge about 12" wide outside the perimeter as a base for your rock edging.
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Step 2
Check the ground level. Place a number of stakes around the perimeter. Select the "Key Stake", the stake that appears to be the average ground level. Mark that level with a piece of tape
or marker pen.
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Using a straight 2x4 and a carpenter's level, go from the Key Stake to Stake #1 and mark it when
the 2x4 is level. Similarly, continue around the perimeter from stake to stake marking the level spot. If possible, check the measurements by stretching the 2x4 across the width or length.
Run a string around the pond at the level mark and use this as your guide for raising the ground level. If you need to raise areas, build up fill at least 4-6" above level to allow settling. |
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Step 3
After the hole has been dug, remove any stones, rocks or tree roots, and smooth the surfaces. To protect the liner from puncture holes, use about 1" of sand, indoor/outdoor carpeting, carpet
padding or 2-3 layers of damp newspapers.
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Step 4
Drape the liner in the hole. It should extend at least 12-18" outside the top edge. Place rocks or other heavy objects temporarily around the outside to hold the liner in place. Some curves
or corners will create excess material. Fold the liner on itself to take up the material, the pressure of the water will keep it in place.
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Step 5
Begin filling with water. Check to be sure everything stays in place and the liner doesn't get pulled away from the edging area. By running the liner under the edging and extending it you
can accommodate varying water depths. Stop filling when the water is about 1-2" below ground level.
Step 6
Cover the excess liner material with decorative stone or other material. Apply your edging. This can be free-form rocks, slate, brick, or any other material that suits your design. Overhang
the water with edging by at least 2" to hide the liner. |
Step 7
Before adding plants or fish, let the water settle for two weeks (for treated city water) or use a pond starter chemical. This is not necessary with natural well water.
Step 8
Ponds normally require some sort of aeration and filtration to promote healthy plant and fish life.
Note: You may want to check the local building code for the depth which is considered a pool. You will need to make the depth of your pond less than the depth the building
code considers a pool.
For example, if the building code states a water cavity 30" or more is considered a pool, then your pond will need to be less than 30" deep at the deepest end.
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RIGID POND CONSTRUCTION |
Rigid liners are available in a multitude of sizes and shapes. Select your pond site and measure out the maximum dimensions you can fit at the location you have chosen. After you get it
home, follow these steps:
Step 1
Position the shell where you want it. Put a series of stakes approximately 12" apart around the perimeter (inexpensive vegetable stakes will do). Remove the shell and put string, rope or
a garden hose around the stakes to create the digging pattern. Check the ground level.
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Step 2
Measure shelf width, shelf depth and total depth. Begin excavation from the center outward. Try to dig matching the contours of the shell using the measurements taken above. Check your
progress by occasionally putting the shell over the hole. Retain the soil and sod for possible later use.
Step 3
When the hole is finished, remove any protrusions such as rocks or roots. Put the shell in the hole and fill the gaps with soil.
Step 4
Cut back the sod 10-12" from the shell's perimeter for edging material. Use free-form stone, slate, brick, or any combination.
Step 5
Fill with water and let it stand for two weeks (for treated city water) or use a pond starter chemical.
Step 6
Speak to your local dealer about plants and fish. Most ponds require aeration and/or filtration to help support plant and fish life.
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PATIO & TUB POND CONSTRUCTION |
Tub ponds (small, self-contained, movable) are easy to construct and maintain. Just choose any suitable container and add water. If the container is not waterproof, use a small tub liner
(typically 5' x 5') and drape it inside. Secure at the edges using trim material. Tub ponds may require aeration and/or filtration.
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